This sewn large knitting needle holder is perfect for all sorts and sizes of knitting needles.
A while back, I made a holder for my larger knitting needles. It wasn’t perfect, and it didn’t hold the longest knitting needles that I had (about 15 inches). But I only had one pair of super long needles and I thought, meh. It’s functional. That should be enough right?
Well… I then got a donation of knitting needles and suddenly my little project was truly too little to hold everything that I had. So, I figured this would be the perfect time to make a new one. I upped the size to fit everything, and I got a do over to fix those small mistakes that I wanted to fix the first time around!
Check out the Craft section of MCG for more fun patterns in forever fabrics or more unlimited ideas. Leave a comment below and let me know what you think and how the pattern works for you!
Supplies
There are a few different supplies that I needed for this project. But it was mainly fabric. I use two types of fabric: one for the inside (plain). And one for the outside. Each rectangles was cut out of each fabric. I cut each rectangleto be slightly larger than the needed size.
Outside Fabric (with design)
- 16-inches by 10-inches
- 16-inches by 6-inches
- 16-inches by 3-inches (x2)
- 16-inches by 4-inches
Inside Fabric (plain purple fabric)
- 16-inches by 16-inches
- 16-inches by 3-inches (x2)
- 16-inches by 4-inches
- 16-inches by 6-inches
- 16-inches by 8-inches
- 16-inches by 12-inches
The other material that I used for the project was a 16-inch zipper (separable) and purple thread that matched the color of the inside fabric.
Process
the outside
To create the outside of the piece, I needed pieces of the outside fabric (the 16-inches by 10-inches and the 16-inches by 6-inches) and half of the zipper (the side without the zipper pull).
On the piece that was 16-inches by 10-inches, I folded over one of the 16-inch sides to give it an edge. This edge was then attached with pins to the visible side of the zipper. One of the 16-inch sides on the 16-inch by 6-inch piece was then pinned to the zipper on its non-visible side.
This create a piece that is 16-inches by 16-inches in total with a zipper dividing the piece into a 1/3 section and a 2/3 section. I set this piece aside and then switched by focus to the inside.
the inside – flaps
The inside of the piece is a little more complicated than the outside. It is made of up three overlapping pockets and their corresponding flaps.
To create the flaps, I needed both 16-inch by 3-inch pieces of both fabrics (so four pieces in total) and the 16-inch by 4-inch piece of both fabrics. I sewed each inside piece to it’s corresponding outside piece with the “right” sides facing in along the 16-inch edge.
The 3-inch and 4-inch edge were left open. This stitch will basically create a tube. After flipping the fabric right side out, I used an iron to flatten each tube. The flaps are then put to the side for later.
the inside – Pockets
The smallest pocket will be made from the 16-inch by 6-inch piece of fabric. I used the inside fabric for this piece, but the outside fabric also would have looked good as well. This pocket will be the one that is the most visible.
Along one of the 16-inch edges, I gave the piece a finished edge. This was made by folding a bit of fabric over the edge and then folding it again. This hides the unfinished edge from both the inside and the outside.
For the remaining two pockets, I did the same finish along one of the 16-inch edges, but I also added on one of the 3-inch by 16-inch flaps. Basically, once the edge was lined up and ready to be sewn, I aligned the edge of a flap along the edge and sew them together. This was done for the remaining two pockets.
Then it was time to layer the project. The 16-inch by 16-inch piece was laid down as the base layer. Then the largest pocket was placed to align with the bottom edge. The middle pocket was laid down next, also aligned with the bottom edge. Lastly, the smallest pocket is placed, again aligned with the bottom edge.
At this point, all pieces except for the 16-inch by 4-inch flap should be set in place. The last flap should be place aligned with the top edge of the piece. Now it’s time to slip each pocket into a smaller pocket.
I decided to create 4 pockets because the 16-inches divided by 4 nicely. More or less can be done depending on the storage needs and how sperate you want your knitting needles. To do this, I just sewed straight lines through the entirety of the inside. All flaps and all pockets. To create four pockets, three lines were sewed on the inside.
Combining the Inside and the Outside
The last step of the project is the easiest one. Combining the inside and outside pieces of the project! I laid the outside piece on the table, “right” side up. Then I placed the inside piece aligned on top of it with the “right” side facing down. The sewn in zipper should be perpendicular to the pocket entrances.
But before the sewing can be completed, the other half of the zipper needs to be put into place. The zipper should be placed with the good side sandwiched between the two pieces. It should face inward. It should be placed along the edge that is parallel to the other half of the zipper and along the edge further away from the current zipper.
The section that was 10 inches wide originally for the outside piece should be flanked by both halves the of the zippers. The section that was 6 inches wide should only have the one zipper in the middle of the project.
Now it’s time to sew the whole thing shut! I left a small opening along the top of the project as I felt that was the side that needed the least amount of strength after it was sewn. The small opening allows me to easily turn the project right side out. I did trim away any excess material though before turning the project. Don’t want any extra lumps and bumps.
The last step is to hand sew up the opening using a hidden stitch. And once that’s done, it’s ready to use! I am very happy to have this to organize my mess of needles. They had just been sitting on my desk for far too long.
Reflections
I’m glad I did another attempt at this project because it turned out fabulous the second time around. But, of course, I’m still too critical and thinking of other changes I could so. But other than using the wrong fabric for the smallest pocket, the rest of this turned out great.
Each pouch is taught which allows the needles to slip into the pocket but not slip out when the back is turned upside down. This whole project functions really well and I am stoked about the way it looks when it is filled with needles.
The project when closed didn’t sit flat like I expected but I kind of like how it became a round tube. I can’t say I’m surprised either since there are so many supplies being held in one place. I did have to keep in mind the thickness of the needles when filling the back because all thick in all pockets on one side would spell disaster.
Lessons
Why Have Flaps?
The flaps in this project are optional but I like to have them to prevent any needles from falling it. It adds a layer of security which otherwise might not be there. Also, I am not the most observant person, so I would accidentally flip the case upside down from time to time.
The flaps prevented the knitting needles from falling out and becoming a mess on the floor. This allows the knitting needle holder to have more flexibility in use. And it can travel well!
Quick Recipe
Large Knitting Needle Holder
Materials
Outside / Patterned Fabric
- 1 16-inch by 10-inch swatch
- 1 16-inch by 6-inch swatch
- 1 16-inch by 4-inch swatch
- 2 16-inch by 3-inch swatch
Inside / Plain Fabric
- 1 16-inch by 16-inch swatch
- 1 16-inch by 12-inch swatch
- 1 16-inch by 8-inch swatch
- 1 16-inch by 6-inch swatch
- 1 16-inch by 4-inch swatch
- 2 16-inch by 3-inch swatch
Instructions
The Outside
- Sew one side of zipper (without zipper pull) between the 16 in. by 10 in. patterned fabric and the 16 in. by 6in. fabric. The 16 in by 10 in. fabric should be edged and placed on the outside of the zipper.
The Inside
- Attach the 16 in. by 3 in. patterned fabric to the 16 in. by 3 in. plain fabric. With the right sides facing together. Sew along both 16 in. edges to create a tube. Turn right side out. Repeat the 16 in. by 3 in. fabrics and the 16 in. by 4 in. fabrics. Set aside.
- Edge the 16 in. by 6 in. plain fabric.
- Edge the 16 in. by 8 in. plain fabric and add on a flattened 16 in. by 3 in. tube so one edge of the tube aligns with the edge of the plain fabric. Repeat step on16 in. by 12 in. plain fabric.
- Laydown the 16 in. by 16 in. plain fabric and place down the following layers aligning each with the bottom edge of the piece (clean edges and flaps should be facing out):16 in. by 12 in. plain fabric with flap16 in. by 8 in. plain fabric with flap16 in. by 6 in. edged plain fabric
- Align the 16 in. by 4 in. flattened tube to the top edge of the project.
- Sew straight lines starting at the top of the project and going down to create the pockets. Do so 4 inches from the side edge, 8 inches from the side edge, and 12 inches from the side edge.
Combining
- Lay the inside and outside squares face each other.
- Place the other half of the zipper between the two fabric layers. Along a side edge. This should be parallel to the sewn in half of the zipper and should be 10inches away from the existing zipper.
- Sew project in a 12 in. by 12 in. square. Leave a small hole to pull the project right side out.
- Invert project and close the hole with a hidden stitch.